Module 1 | Quick Start Guides: Meet Your Assistant

Lesson 01 – Entering the Lab: Pick Your Quick Start Path

Before we dive into the tools themselves, let’s take a moment to set up how you’ll actually work with Topaz Photo AI.

Think of this as preparing your Image Lab or getting your environment ready before the real testing and refining begins.

Now, the tools don’t change. No matter how you bring your images in, Topaz gives you the same enhancement options.

But the way you enter the lab? That can shape the rest of your workflow.

So, we have three main entry points:

—You can use Topaz Photo AI as a standalone app

—You can run it as a plug-in from Lightroom Classic

— Or send files in directly from Photoshop

There are other ways to launch it, but in this course, we’ll focus on these three.

They’re the most common and most reliable paths for photographers who want precision and control.

So which one’s the best? That depends on your workflow.

Because while the tools inside the lab stay the same, the path you take to get there?

That’s what you’re choosing right now.

Over the next three lessons, I’ll walk you through a quick start guide for each method.

You’ll see exactly how each one works and then you can decide which entry point fits the way you already edit.

Because at the end of the day, this isn’t about using every option.

It’s about picking the one that gets you into the lab, ready to work with zero friction.

So if you’re ready to get started… let’s do it.

Lesson 02 – Standalone Mode: Full Control in the Image Lab

Let’s step into your Image Lab… and start with the cleanest, most focused setup: using Topaz Photo AI as a standalone app.

This workflow gives you full control. You’re not relying on Lightroom or Photoshop… instead, you’re going straight to the enhancement lab, where everything begins.

Getting Started

Go ahead and open the Topaz Photo AI app. From here, you have two ways to bring your image into the lab:

—Click the “Browse” button and select your photo manually

— Or simply drag and drop the image file right into the workspace

As soon as the image loads, Autopilot kicks in.

Autopilot acts like your assistant technician, scanning the file and automagically applying what it thinks are the right tools.

That might include Denoise, Sharpen, Face Recovery, or even Upscale, depending on what it detects.

But here’s the key: Autopilot is just a suggestion… not a decision.

It’s a smart starting point, but you’re still in control.

And, we’ll dive deeper into how Autopilot works in an upcoming lesson. For now, just know it’s there to give you a head start.

WHAT NEXT?

After Autopilot loads its selections, you can:

—Keep what it recommends

—Tweak the settings

—Or remove everything and build your own enhancement stack from scratch

This is your lab. Your workflow. Your call.

Enhancing the Image

Once your photo is loaded and the initial tools are active, you can begin enhancing:

—by adjusting the sliders on any recommended tools

—Or click “Add Enhancement” to bring in additional tools as needed

Each tool you add becomes part of your enhancement stack, like adding precision instruments to your editing lab.

Think of each one as a problem-solver: targeted, powerful, and purpose-built.

You’re not just throwing edits at a photo…

You’re refining the image, one smart choice at a time.

Exporting Your Enhanced Image

When everything looks good and your enhancements are dialed in, it’s time to export your image out of the lab.

Click “Export Image” in the lower-right corner and in this export window, you can:

—Add a prefix or suffix to your file name which makes it easy to spot images that have been enhanced in Topaz, or not

—Then, make sure to choose the location where the new files should be saved to…

—And then, pick your file format (JPEG, TIFF, DNG, etc.)

Then click “Save.”

Now, Topaz will process the image and deliver a cleaned, enhanced version, ready for whatever comes next.

What’s Next?

In the next lesson, we’ll explore how this process works inside Lightroom Classic using the Topaz plug-in.

The tools are the same. The goal is the same. But the path to the lab feels a little different and you’ll see why.

Lesson 03 – Lightroom Classic: Send, Enhance, and Return

If you’re using Lightroom Classic to manage and edit your photos, you don’t have to change your workflow to use Topaz Photo AI.

Since it fits right in as a plugin. So, once you send your image to the Topaz lab, do your precise enhancements you can then have it automagically returned to your Lightroom catalog.

And, there are two main ways to send an image from Lightroom to Topaz, and it all depends on your preferred editing workflow.

Let’s take a quick look at both options now and later in the course, we’ll go deeper into which method works best for different workflows.

First Option – ‘Edit In’ Method

The first opotion is to select one or multiple images, and right-click on any of them, then go to Edit In and choose Edit In Topaz Photo AI.

You’ll then get a window with some options you need to choose before getting into the Topaz Lab. 

So, these are basically instructions for Lightroom so it knows how, and what, to send into Topaz.

The first option is the only one available for RAW files and the other two options will be greyed if that’s the file format you’re starting with.

So, this first option creates a copy of the file with your Lightroom adjustments applied.

If you’re not starting with a RAW file, then you can choose from one of the other two options. 

So, if you choose “Edit a Copy”, Lightroom will duplicate your original file and apply the edits to that.

Now, although you can choose the third option, which will overwrite your original file, it’s not something I recommend since you’ll never get your original file back if needed.

Next, you need to tell Lightroom your preferred file format, and color space.

For my images, I usually go with TIFF and ProPhoto RGB, and later in the course I’ll explain why I chose these and we’ll go into more detail about the different options.

For now, go ahead and pick JPEG or TIFF and ProPhoto RGB to get started.

Click Edit, and Lightroom creates the new file and sends it into your Lab.

Second Option – ‘Plug-In Extras’ Method

Now, before we do that, let’s check out the second option and this time we’re going to select one or multiple RAW files, then go to File > Plug-In Extras > Process with Topaz Photo AI.

This opens your images directly in Topaz.

Now, either method leads to the same tools, same interface and the only thing that changes is how your photos get here.

In this mode, RAW Denoise is applied by default and Autopilot may suggest other enhancement tools after it anyalizes your image.

If you want to use the suggestions provided, click on that tool block and it will be added to your enhancement stack.

Or if you prefer to manually choose your tools, click the ‘Choose Something Else’ button, and select it from this new fly-out menu, click your tool of choice to add it.

Next, you need to click on the tool block to reveal the panel and the options for using that enhancement.

So, your first choice should be to pick the AI model that will give you your desired results and then, if needed, tweak the sliders to fine-tune your edit.

EXPORT

When you’re done enhancing, click the Export Image button, Topaz will process your file with any enhancements and put the new file into your catalog.

It’s seamless, efficient, and keeps everything in one place.

This workflow is perfect if you already manage your images in Lightroom.

It lets you enhance with precision without disrupting your organization.

Up next, we’ll walk through the Photoshop workflow and how to make your enhancements fully non-destructive using Smart Filters.

Lesson 04 – Photoshop Plug-In: Smart Filters, Smarter Workflow

If you do your editing in Photoshop, Topaz Photo AI fits right in.

It works just like any other filter, only this one plugs you into a high-tech photo enhancement lab.

And just like any smart lab, the workflow changes slightly depending on what kind of file you’re working with.

The process is a little different for JPEGs and RAW files.

However, let’s start with RAW, since the JPEG workflow is basically the same once your RAW file is fully edited and opened in Photoshop.

Open a RAW 

So go ahead and double click on any RAW… And this will automagically launch the Adobe Camera Raw editor… 

…from here, you’ll make your edits and once you’re happy with how it looks, click the Open button to bring it into the Photoshop workspace.

Smart Objects

Now, before we send the image into your Topaz Lab…

…here’s a pro tip: right-click on your image layer and choose Convert to Smart Object.

That converts your layer into a smart object which is basically turning on the lab’s control panel.

But, why does that matter?

Because now, when you send the image into the Topaz Lab, all the tools and enhancements you apply will be saved as Smart Filters.

And I’ll show you how that looks and works in just a second.

Launching Topaz Photo AI

Now, to send the image into your Topaz Lab, head up to the Filter menu, go down to Topaz Labs, and choose Topaz Photo AI.

Once your image loads, Autopilot will kick-in, which is like your assistant technician, and it’s going to take over for a moment as it anaylizes your photo.

It’s going to scan it for issues like digital noise, blur, low resolution, or even faces, and then it will suggest the tools it thinks your image needs to fix those problems.

But don’t worry, you’re still the lead technician.

You can decide to add the suggestions by clicking on the tool, or clicking on this button to manually select the tools you need.

And now that the tools are added to your enhancement stack it’s time to click on one to expand the panel… to reveal your options for making your image better.

First choose one of the AI models that best enhances your photo and if neede, adjust the sliders to tweak your desired outcome.

Export and Re-Enter the Lab Anytime

When you’re happy with the results, click Export to Adobe Photoshop down in the bottom-right.

Topaz will process the image and deliver it right back to Photoshop, with a Smart Filter applied, which looks like another layer embedded below your original.

So, let’s say you realize the settings you used are too aggressive.

Well, if you double-click the Topaz Photo AI label, it will take you back into your Lab so you can re-adjust the settings as needed.

In a way, this is giving you the ability to work non-destructively and it’s faster than starting over from scratch.

Next up, is a quick overview of the Topaz Lab interface so you know where everything is located.

Lesson 05 – Tour the Lab: Panels, Tools, and Your Editing Space

Welcome to the Topaz lab workspace.  This is where all the magic happens…

…and the more comfortable you are navigating this space, the easier it’ll be to focus on making smart, intentional edits.

So, let’s take a quick tour around your digital lab… with the main preview area taking up the majority of the space.

This is where you’ll review your enhancements as they are applied in real time.

Top Bar

Just above that is the top bar that shows some useful information… like…

…and then to the right is your Enhancement Panel.

Enhancement Panel (Right Side)

At the top, is a navigator window….

… And your crop tool can be accessed from here as well via this icon, that when clicked on will open your crop window…

Just below that is where Autopilot drops in its suggestions and where you’ll manually build your editing stack of tools like Denoise, Sharpen, and others via this “choose” button.

So, think of this as your control center, where every enhancement begins.

Each enhancement shows up in its own collapsible section.

You can open them up to adjust settings, or remove them completely.

You can also toggle individual tools on or off to compare results… helpful when you’re fine-tuning your desired outcome.

You can even drag and dock panels to customize the layout if you like working a certain way.

It’s your workspace, so, set it up in a way that supports your workflow.

Thumbnail Panel (Bottom)
Along the bottom, you’ll see the thumbnail stripo and this shows all the images you’ve loaded into your current session.

If you’ve loaded multiple images, you can switch between them by clicking on their thumbnail.

And this thumbnail strip provides a lot of useful information to help you with your editing workflow.

On the thumbnails themselves you’ll see little green dots and these let you know that Autopilot is ready to go…

…And once you click on a thumbnail, Autopilot will add an enhancement tool or tools that it recommends and then you get this icon next to the green dot which let’s you know adjustments have been added.

And if you crop an image, the crop icon is added. So, these visual cues are a great way to glance at the thumbnails to see what has or hans’t been edited.

Also, if you hover over a thumbnail, a new window will show the edits and setting amounts applied.

Again, anything in green was suggested and applied by Autopilot.

If you right-click on a thumbnail you’ll get a menu of new options and we’ll cover these in a future lesson, but most are self-explanatory.

Zoom + Comparison Tools
Just below the preview, you’ll find your zoom controls and before/after comparison tools.

These are essential for evaluating your enhancements and we’ll go deeper into these in the next lesson.

Before/After Options
Now in this same panel, you have some different options for viewing the edits before and after they’re applied.

Your Lab, Your Workflow
Everything here is designed to help you work quickly, cleanly, and with precision.

Once you know where everything lives, the tools inside the workshop become a lot easier to master.

What’s Next
In the next module, we will start reviewing all of your enhancement tools so you know what they are, what they do, the AI models that are available and why one might work better versus another, and much more.

So, if you’re ready to get aquanted with your editing tools, let’s do it.

Lesson 06 – Autopilot: Your Guided Lab Assistant for a Streamlined Workflow

When you first load an image into Topaz Photo AI, Autopilot immediately jumps into action, scanning your photo and applying enhancements based on resolution, sharpness, noise, and detected faces. Think of it as your built-in lab assistant—quickly performing diagnostic scans to recommend tools like Denoise, Sharpen, Recover Faces, Upscale, or Preserve Text.

But here’s the critical point: Autopilot isn’t psychic. While it’s incredibly smart, it’s ultimately offering recommendations based on deep learning—an AI trained on millions of real-world images to recognize patterns such as typical noise levels at different ISOs, blur types, and the nuances of sharp detail. It’s doing its best, but it doesn’t understand your specific creative intent, style, or the particular outcome you want for your image.

That’s where you come in. You’re in control. You can accept Autopilot’s recommendations, fine-tune its settings, reorder enhancements, or remove unnecessary tools. If you prefer complete manual control, you can even turn Autopilot off entirely.

Configuring Autopilot for Your Workflow

Autopilot truly shines when you tailor it to your needs and preferences, ensuring every image enters your workflow optimized from the start. To do this, head into Preferences and click the Autopilot tab. Here, you’ll find several powerful options for streamlining your workflow:

— Disable Unnecessary Tools: If you’re primarily editing landscapes or wildlife, you probably don’t need Face Recovery. Disable this in Preferences to speed up processing.

— Set Enhancement Thresholds: Maybe you want Denoise applied only to images with moderate to severe noise. Adjust these thresholds to ensure enhancements are applied thoughtfully, not automatically to every image.

— Select Default AI Models: Choose specific AI models such as “Standard Sharpen” or “Strong Denoise” as your default options, aligning Autopilot’s choices with your editing preferences.

— Customize Strength Levels: Decide precisely how strong each enhancement should be applied by default, giving you consistency across your edits.

Efficient Batch Workflow

One of the most significant workflow advantages of customizing Autopilot is batch processing. Once you’ve set your preferred configurations, applying them across multiple images is straightforward:

— Select your batch of images.
— Right-click and select Apply Autopilot.

Autopilot will then rerun its analysis using your custom preferences, instantly aligning your entire batch to your workflow specifications. Combined with presets and batch exporting, this saves considerable editing time and ensures consistency.

By understanding and customizing how Autopilot functions, you transform it from a generic assistant into your personalized lab partner—setting the stage for a smooth, efficient, and intentional editing process.

Next, we’ll explore Selection and Masking, empowering you to apply enhancements precisely where needed and protect areas of your image from unnecessary adjustments.

Module 2 | Inside the Image Lab: Core Tools for Smarter Editing

Lesson 01 – Start Here: Explore the Core Tools in Your Image Lab

This is where your journey of discovery begins… by exploring the core enhancement tools inside your Topaz Lab.

Our goal in this module, and even the next is simple… discovery.

You’re going to learn what each enhancement tool does… including the different AI models for each…

…and the additional tools to tweak the final outcome based on your creative vision.

You’ll also learn when and why you might choose one model over another.

So, each enhancement is designed to solve a specific image problem, like; digital noise, sharpness, lighting, color, or clarity.

Now, you may find yourself using only two or three out of the nine core enhancement tools available. That’s totally fine.

This module is here to help you get familiar with all of them… so you know what’s available, and what’s worth exploring further.

Think of it like an orientation to your editing lab.

Each lesson in this module gives you a clear, focused overview of one tool at a time.

To assist you, you’ll find a downloadable folder of the same images used in the lessons…

…so, feel free to follow along, with those image, if you’d like.

But for the best experience, I recommend using your own images after each lesson to see how these tools respond to your cameras’ sensor, your subjects, and your unique editing needs.

And don’t forget to print out your Discovery Worksheets and use them to jot down what each tool does, what settings you want to remember, and how you might use it in your future workflow.

This isn’t about building that workflow just yet… but this is where you begin understanding the possibilities.

So, if you’re ready to get started, let’s do it.

Lesson 02 – RAW Denoise: Start Clean. Stay Sharp.

RAW Denoise gives you a clean, natural starting point by reducing digital noise directly from your camera’s untouched sensor data.

And it’s available only when you bring in RAW files.

Now, here’s what makes RAW Denoise different from the other enhancement tools…

…it kicks in before any upscaling, sharpening, or any other edits and you’ll see a message reflecting that at the top of the tools panel.

So, that means when using RAW denoise, it will better preserve the texture, the depth and the fine details in your photo… which means… 

…you’ll end up getting cleaner shadows, more natural edges and a stronger base for future edits.

How It Works

So, let’s click the RAW Denoise stack to review the editing tools.

And this one has two primary options: AI models and sliders.

The AI models determine how aggressively the noise is handled.

The sliders help you fine-tune how that cleanup looks. Let’s walk through both.

AI Models: Normal vs Strong

You can think of the AI models as presets for how Topaz cleans your image.

Normal is ideal when your image has moderate noise from ISO 1600 or below.

This model does a great job preserving fine detail while cleaning up the grain.

It’s my go-to for most daylight images or any RAW files shot in good lighting with a balanced exposure.

Strong is built for more difficult images that were shot at higher ISO’s like 3200 or above.

And since it’s more agressive in cleaning out the noise, it may soften some of the finer textures, especially in areas like hair, grass, or fur.

Now, if you’re not sure which one to use, start with Normal.

Then observe how much noise is left, if it still looks rough, switch to Strong.

Sliders: Strength and Detail

Once you’ve chosen your AI model, the two sliders below let you refine the result.

Strength controls how much noise is being removed.

If the grain is heavy, increasing Strength can help smooth things out.

But go too far, and textures may start to disappear… leaving your image looking unnatural.

So, if you’ve need to push Strength higher to remove the noise, then increase the intensity of Minor Deblur to try and bring some of the detail back.

However, to much of this can also degrade your image by introducing digital artifacts.

So, there’s a give and take, to balance between removing all the noise, keeping the texture and details, and not introducing artifacts that make your image worse.

So, you might have to go back and forth a few times with both sliders to find that sweet spot.

What You’re Aiming For

RAW Denoise is all about starting clean… without compromising the integrity of your image.

You want your shadows to stay rich… and not muddy.

You want textures to still look like what they are, like; soft feathers, hair or, fine fur.

Otherwise your image will take an an unnatural look. 

Now, if you’re shooting or working with JPG or TIFF files, then you’ll need to use the Standard Denoise option which we’ll explore in the next lesson.

But, before you do that, I recommend grabbing a few RAW files, with a range of ISO’s from lets’ say ISO 800 up to 8000, or higher, and run them through Topaz and play with both AI models and the sliders to get a feel for the type of results you can expect.

Lesson 03 – Standard Denoise: Clean the Noise, Keep the Character

If you’re working with JPEGs, TIFFs, or any other non-RAW format… then Standard Denoise is for you.

It’s designed to reduce digital noise while preserving the texture and personality of your subjects.

It doesn’t work directly with sensor data like RAW Denoise does…

But it still gives you powerful control over noisy files, especially those shot at high ISOs.

WHEN TO USE IT

When you open a non-RAW file in Topaz Photo AI, Autopilot may apply Standard Denoise automagically, if detects grain or noise in the image.

That’s exactly what happened with this image which I shot at ISO 10,000 and the noise is easy to spot via the original preview.

Now, if it doesn’t automagically add Denoise as an enhancement go ahead apply it manually if you have noise you’d like to remove.

So, let’s check out the options available for removing any noise.

THE CONTROLS PANEL

So, inside the Denoise enhancement control panel, you’ll find two main tabs: Control + Edit Selection.

And we’ll cover this in detail in a futre lesson, for now, let’s review your options in the Control tab.

AI MODELS: NORMAL, STRONG, AND EXTREME

So, your first choice is to choose one of the three AI models and each is trained to handle different levels of noise.

Normal is great for mild-to-moderate noise created with ISO’s of 1600 or less and it does an excellent job without softening fine details.

Strong on the other hand is more aggressive and the softening of textures and details will be more vissible and this one is perfect for images shot between ISO 1600 and 10,000.

Extreme is the most powerful model and also the most destructive in terms of destroying textures and details that will alter the character of your image.

But, it was designed for heavily degraded files shot beyond ISO 10,000.

It can work wonders… but it may smooth things out a little more than you’d like.

Just keep in mind that, these aren’t hard rules… just guidelines.

What matters most is how your image looks after the AI model is applied.

So as you try each one, pay attention to textures, edges, and shadow areas, and then ask yourself whether or not noise feels under control?

And are you still seeing important detail? If not, try a different model and compare the result.

SLIDERS: FINE-TUNE THE BALANCE

Next are the sliders that you can use to tweak the clean-up process and these are similar to the one’s available in RAW Denoise.

Strength, controls how aggressive the noise reduction is and as you increase the intensity the more details you’ll lose.

Set it too low, though, and you’ll still see grain where you don’t want it.

So, if you have to go higher, try and use the Original Detail option to bring back, well, more detail.

But again, it’s possible you can degrade your image if you go to far.

So, it’s a balancing act between the two.

WHAT THIS TOOL IS REALLY FOR

So, noise reduction isn’t about making everything look perfect. It’s about restoring clarity… without removing character.

Whether you’re working with wildlife images in low light or need to boost the ISO becuase you need a faster shutter speed the goal is to clean things up without flattening the image.

Once you get used to it, you’ll likely want to denoise all your images… because even subtle noise cleanup can make an image feel sharper… without sacrificing its original character.

And now that you’ve cleared away the digital clutter… it’s time to make your image even sharper.

So, in the next lesson, we’ll explore the Sharpen enhancement options… that will recover edge detail, restore clarity, and refine softness… and I’ll share pro tips without going overboard.

But first, just like you did in the last lesson, bring in multiple images at different ISO settings play with all three AI models, regardless of the ISO of your image to see how your photos will respond, and don’t forget to test out each slider too.

Lesson 04 – Sharpen: Recover the Moment, Not the Crunch

Not every image is going to be tack-sharp. Sometimes you just miss focus—by a hair.

Sometimes your subject moves… and you catch the expression but not the detail.

Or maybe you’re shooting handheld in low light and your shutter speed just doesn’t cut it.

And then there’s gear—some lenses are just soft by nature, especially at wide apertures.

Whatever the reason, Topaz Photo AI’s Sharpen enhancement was designed to help.

This isn’t about over-processing or making everything look unnaturally crisp.

It’s about recovering the moment—bringing back the detail that helps the image feel finished.

And doing it in a way that still looks real.

AI MODELS: 7 WAYS TO RESCUE SOFT IMAGES

You’ve got seven models to choose from here.

Each one was built to tackle a different kind of blur or softness.

Let’s start with the one I reach for most… Standard.

This is perfect for general softness—caused by a less-than-sharp lens, or a little haze around the edges.

It won’t do anything dramatic.

But that’s the point—it gives just enough crispness to make a good image look great.

Strong is the next step up.

If the image is noticeably blurry or just didn’t quite land in focus, this can help.

It’s more aggressive… which means it can also create halos or rough transitions if pushed too far.

So use it with care.

Lens Blur is a lifesaver for portraits.

When your focus point is off—say, it landed on the nose instead of the eyes—this model can bring those details back.

In the image of my daughter included in your resources, that’s exactly what happened.

Lens Blur brought her eyes back into focus, and the image suddenly felt right.

Lens Blur v2 is a newer version meant to handle even stronger blur, and it tries to apply corrections more evenly across the image.

But in my experience, I still lean toward the original model most of the time.

Motion Blur is built for action.

If you’ve got a moving subject or a slight case of camera shake, this model will try to reverse the direction of the blur.

It’s not magic… but when the movement is subtle, it can make a big difference.

Natural is the softest touch.

It doesn’t push sharpness too hard.

It’s great when you want a gentle polish—enough to add clarity, but not so much that the sharpening becomes visible.

Refocus is for those shots where the focus point was just barely off.

Think of it as a nudge—it helps recover texture and edge detail that feels just out of reach.

If one model doesn’t feel right, try another.

But again… we’re in the discovery phase.

No need to test everything now.

Just start to understand what each one does.

SLIDERS: FINE-TUNE YOUR SHARPENING

Once you’ve picked a model, you’ll see a Strength slider.

This controls how much sharpening is applied. But sharpening is personal.

Sometimes I’ll dial it back a little—especially if it starts looking too crunchy.

Other times, I’ll nudge it up just enough to bring out a little extra snap.

There’s no right answer.

Just watch for halos, artifacting, or edge weirdness.

And always check the textures—skin, fur, grass, fabric.

That’s where over-sharpening shows up first.

PREVIEW AT 100% 

Here’s a little truth that’s saved me a lot of frustration… Preview at 100%.

That’s how most people will view your image.

Zoom in too far—200%, 400%, 800%—and you’ll start chasing problems that don’t matter.

It’s easy to fall into the trap.

You see one little flaw and suddenly you’re spiraling.

Before you know it, an hour’s gone.

So get in, fine-tune at 100%, and trust your gut.

Zoom in to inspect. Zoom out to decide.

KNOWING WHEN TO STOP

Alright, although sharpening is powerful and will make most of your images better, it’s not a magical fix for all out of focus images.

However, as you’ll discover… when you run different levels of blurry images through your Topaz Lab, it will save more than you might expect.

So, now it’s your turn.

Go through your library of photos, find some with different levels of blurriness, test all the AI models and sliders to see for yourself how magically delicious sharpening with AI can be.

And I recommend having the sharpening cheat sheet handy for reference.

Then once you’re done experimenting, you’ll be ready for the next lesson where we’ll explore the Adjust Lighting enhancement.

Lesson 05 – Adjust Lighting: Bring Back the Depth

Our next enhancement tool is one you might never need.

And that’s because if you do most of your editing in Lightroom or Photoshop, you probably already fixed exposure before bringing the image into Topaz for enhancing.

So if you’re already adjusting exposure earlier in your workflow, feel free to skip this enhancement tool overview.

For everyone else, let’s take a quick look at what Adjust Lighting can do.

ADJUST LIGHTING

Once you open the tool, you’ll see a dropdown that lets you choose between two AI models; Version 1 and 2.

Version 1 is a very simple adjustment that allows you to make your image brighter or darker based on the intensity you set with the Strength slider.

On the other hand, Version 2 is more advanced and gives you more control over the tonal values of your image.

So, just like in version 1, you can make the overall image darker or brighter.

But with version 2, you can target the Highlights and/or  Shadows for more precise control over the lighting of your image..

So if you need quick, targeted exposure control, especially for shadows and highlights, Version 2 is your best bet.

Version 2 also offers a Color Correction option that will provide a small amount of, well, color correction which it will automagically adjust when you turn on the switch. 

And disable if you want to preserve the original color in your images.

Next up, we’ll take a look at Balance Color, which is a better option for color correction.

Lesson 06 – BALANCE COLOR: NUDGE THE MOOD, FIX THE FUNK

Color does more than define how your image looks… It shapes how it feels.

Even the slightest shift can turn an image from cold to warm… from dull to clean… or from neutral to bold.

That’s where the Balance Color tool comes in.

This enhancement gives you a clean, simple way to adjust color temperature and tone without diving into complex grading tools.

And while it may look minimal, the impact can be significant.

Let’s explore how it works.

HOW IT WORKS

When you activate the Balance Color tool, you’ll see two sliders: Temperature and Opacity.

The Temperature slider shifts the overall tone of the image.

Move it to the left to cool things down. Move it to the right to warm things up.

This is especially useful for fixing subtle color casts… like blue shadows in snow, or skin tones that lean too orange.

Or maybe the scene just doesn’t match the mood you remember.

This slider lets you nudge the image back into alignment.

The Opacity slider controls the strength of the effect. 100% gives you the full change.

Lower values blend the color adjustment and it’s not as intense.

So if the color shift feels too strong, dial it back until it feels natural again.

WORKS BEST WITH

Balance Color is especially useful when you’re working in the standalone version of Topaz Photo AI.

It gives you a fast way to refine color… without needing to jump into another app.

It also works best on processed files like JPEGs and TIFFs.

If you apply it to a RAW file, Topaz will convert the output to a TIFF automatically.

You won’t lose image quality, but it’s good to know what’s happening in the background.

This tool isn’t trying to compete with white balance or HSL tools in Lightroom and Photoshop.

Instead, it offers a clean, intuitive way to bring your image closer to the way it felt… when the color is just slightly off.

UP NEXT

In the next lesson, we’ll look at Upscale, a tool designed to enlarge your image without losing quality.

It doesn’t just stretch pixels… it rebuilds them.

Lesson 07 – Upscale: Make It Bigger Without Breaking It

Sometimes, your image just isn’t big enough for your current project.

It could be because you’re working with a scanned photo, or maybe you had to crop in really tight on a RAW File… or, maybe you’re prepping for a print enlargement… and the current resolution isn’t enough.

Whatever the reason, this is when the Upscale enhancement in your Topaz Lab shines, and it’s not just about making it larger, becuase the magic is…

…how and what Topaz does during the upscale.

…so, instead of just stretching the pixels to make the image larger, Topaz uses it’s AI technology to add detail that wasn’t there before as it Upscales.

And this creates a more natural, detailed version of your image at it’s new size.  So, it’s rebuilding structure intelligently.

SCALE OPTIONS

Ok, so, once your image opens in Topaz, Autopilot kicks in, anaylizes your image and if it determines that the file can benefit from upscaling it will automagically apply  a scaling percentage, up to 6X .

But you’re not locked into that. You can choose your own scale… 

Adlib… scale section

This simple flexibility gives you control over the output without needing a separate resizing app.

AI MODELS: CHOOSE THE RIGHT ENGINE

Alright we also have six AI models available for Upscale.

Each one is trained for a specific type of image… and knowing what they’re designed for will help you understand when they might be useful.

STANDARD V1 – is the original model, it’s reliable and clean. Use this when you want a solid enlargement without too much enhancement. It’s a safe starting point for most images.

STANDARD V2 – builds on the original model with better texture and realism, especially for feathers, fur, and foliage.

If you want the upscaled version to look natural, not synthetic, try this one.

LOW RESOLUTION – is designed for pixelated or heavily compressed images. It’s perfect for old files, scanned prints, or photos that came from an outdated phone or camera.

This model helps smooth out blockiness and rebuild detail that looks natural.

HIGH FIDELITY V1 – is very subtle and it enhances what’s already there without trying to invent new detail. Use it when the original is already strong and you want to maintain the original, nautral look.

HIGH FIDELITY V2 – Is basically the same except it has better edge and texture handling. And it’s ideal for high-quality enlargements where accuracy matters, like detailed landscapes or product images.

GRAPHICS – is perfect for logos, text, illustrations, and charts. And it keeps lines sharp and avoids softening flat color areas. So, if your photo includes any sort of embedded text or graphic detail, this could be the right fit.

SLIDERS: LIGHT TOUCHES THAT MAKE A DIFFERENCE

Once you’ve selected your AI model, you may see up to three optional sliders:

MINOR DENOISE – provides a bit of noise reduction. And you can use it when the image has a little bit of grain or leftover noise, especially in skies, skin, or flat areas.

But If you already used RAW Denoise earlier in your workflow, you probably don’t need this.

MINOR DEBLUR – applies gentle sharpening, which is useful if your original was just a little soft or if the focus is slightly off. But, I wouldn’t use this in place of the sharpening enhancement. It’s more of a finishing layer.

FIX COMPRESSION – targets digital artifacts like banding, halos, or pixelation that can occur with low-res files.

If you’re working with a clean TIFF or RAW, you can skip this one.

Wrap

Alright, so, upscaling gives you room to crop in tighter and the flexibility to enlarge an image you thought was too small to use.

And now it’s your turn to try out upscaling on your own images or if you don’t have any locate this image in your resources folder.

In the next lesson you’ll discover how to enhance text in an image.

Lesson 08 – Preserve Text: Keep the Message Crystal Clear

Alright, so, upscaling gives you room to crop in tighter and the flexibility to enlarge an image you thought was too small to use.

And in the next lesson you’ll discover how to enhance text in an image.

Sometimes the story isn’t just in the photo… it’s in the words inside the photo.

A road sign. A handwritten note. A product label.

Whatever the source… when there’s text in your image, one thing matters most… readability.

And here’s the challenge…  As soon as you sharpen, upscale, or clean up digital noise, that text can start to fall apart.

Edges blur. Letters lose shape. The clarity gets lost in the process.

That’s where the Preserve Text tool becomes essential.

It’s designed to protect the written word… to make sure the message comes through clean and clear.

Whether that message is official or sentimental, it deserves to be seen.

WHAT IT DOES

Preserve Text is a precision enhancement built specifically for photos that contain readable type.

It’s not trying to enhance the entire image.

It focuses only on the areas with text and sharpens them selectively.

The goal here isn’t overprocessing… It’s clarity, intention, and preservation.

SELECTING TEXT AREAS

When you enable Preserve Text, the software automatically detects where the text is and it highlights these areas with a mask.

If Topaz selects more than you want… like blurry text in the background or labels that are meant to stay soft… you can clean it up… just head to the Selections tab.

Use the brush tool to erase any part of the mask you don’t want enhanced.

AI MODELS

Inside the Controls tab, you’ll see two different models. Each one is trained for a different kind of challenge.

LOW RESOLUTION; This is the go-to AI model for small or pixelated text, like; scanned receipts, old screenshots, or compressed files where the letters have lost their edge.

It works by tightening up those blurry outlines and restoring clarity without making the text look artificial.

NOISY; This one is best when the background itself is messy. 

If there’s grain, texture, or digital noise bleeding into the letters… this model smooths out the imperfections while protecting the form of each character.

It’s great for high ISO images, uneven lighting, or anything scanned under less-than-ideal conditions.

TWEAKING THE INTENSITY

Below the models, you’ll find a Strength slider. This lets you fine-tune how much enhancement is applied.

A subtle bump might be all you need. Too much, and the text can start to look a little too perfect.

The goal is always the same: Make the text easier to read… without making it stand out unnaturally.

Alright, next, we’ll shift gears to the final enhancement in this module, with the Crop tool.

A simple but powerful tool for reframing your story with purpose and precision. If you’re ready, let’s do it.

Lesson 09 – Crop: Reframe the Story with Intention

Sometimes, the most powerful change you can make to an image isn’t about pixels.

It’s about placement. Composition. Balance.

That’s where the Crop tool comes in.

And while it may seem basic on the surface, it’s one of the quickest ways to clarify your message before you even touch an enhancement.

Because sometimes the story in your image is buried under distractions.

Cropping gives you the chance to bring that story forward.

WHY IT MATTERS

Cropping isn’t just about cutting out unwanted space.

It’s about guiding the viewer’s eye and bringing attention to your subject.

It’s the fastest way to make your photo feel more intentional.

And doing it early… before sharpening, denoising, or upscaling… means your edits will be more targeted.

You’re working on the version of the image that matters most.

WHERE TO FIND IT

You’ll find the Crop tool inside the Navigator window.

Click the crop icon to open the cropping interface.

This brings up your cropping overlay, where you can adjust the frame to suit your composition.

You can select from predefined aspect ratios… or unlock the ratio and enter your own custom size.

The default sizes are measured in inches, which is helpful if you’re preparing an image for print.

But you’re not limited to those options.

You can also rotate the crop using the angle input box or manually by clicking and dragging outside the frame.

Need to switch the orientation from horizontal to vertical?

Just grab a corner and rotate.

You can also resize manually by dragging the edges.

And if you need a different format entirely—head to the Size tab for more presets.

HOW TO APPLY IT

Once your frame is set, click Apply.

You’ll return to the main interface with your newly framed image.

From there, you can continue working with enhancements—knowing the composition is locked in.

It’s a small change that sets the tone for every edit that follows.

So while it may feel simple, don’t overlook this tool.

Because sometimes, all your photo needs…

…is a little reframing.

And now that you’ve explored all the core enhancement tools in your Image Lab…

…it’s time to look at what happens when things go off track.

In the next module, we’ll move into Topaz’s repair and restoration tools—designed to help you recover details, remove distractions, and bring damaged files back to life.

Module 3 | Image Repair + Restoration Tools

Lesson 01 – Welcome to the Repair Station: Tools for Restoring What Matters

Every photo has potential. But some need more than enhancement… they need a second chance.

That’s where this module comes in. Inside your digital lab, this is the repair station.

It’s where you bring softness back into structure… erase distractions that don’t belong… and clean up the small flaws that time… or a rushed capture left behind.

These aren’t tools you’ll use on every image.

But when the moment matters and the image is close, but not quite there… these are the tools that can make the difference.

Just like in the last module, you’ll find Discovery Worksheets to help you track what each repair tool does and when it might be useful in your workflow

THIS MODULE

In this module, we’ll explore four restoration features:

Face Recovery – for bringing small, out-of-focus faces back to life.

Super Focus – for images that couldn’t be saved with the standard sharpening AI models.

Remove – for erasing distractions without interrupting your editing flow.

Dust + Scratch – for restoring scanned photos or digital files that have collected imperfections over time.

Each tool uses AI in a different way.

And each one is designed to help you restore more of what matters… without losing the essence of what made the image worth saving in the first place.

DOWNLOAD FILES

If you’d like to use the same files I’m using throughout this module you can download them via the link below this video.

But just like before, I encourage you to test each tool on your own photos after watching each lesson.

That’s where the learning really sticks and you’ll start to notice patterns in how Topaz processes your photos…

…and then it will be easier to build a workflow that works for you.

By the end of this module, you’ll know what each repair tool does, when to use it, and why it matters.

So welcome to the repair station. If you’re ready to discover these four tools, let’s do it.

Lesson 02 – Recover Faces: Rescue Expression. Restore the Soul.

I don’t know about your images but not all of mine start off perfect.

You’ve got the composition right. The light is beautiful. The moment is real.

But the face, the one that matters most, just isn’t sharp.

Maybe it’s soft from motion. Maybe it’s small in the frame.

Whatever the reason, that’s where Recover Faces comes in.

This tool is designed to do one thing… and do it well.

It reconstructs facial detail when it’s missing or muddied, helping you bring the human presence in your photo back into focus.

Now, this isn’t a skin filter or a retouching tool.

It’s more like a sculptor… rebuilding structure, reshaping soft edges, and restoring the soul of a face that felt a little too far gone.

WHEN NOT TO USE IT

Now, for a quick warning; if your portrait is already sharp… leave this tool alone.

In fact, if Autopilot scans your image and doesn’t recommend Recover Faces, there’s probably a reason.

And that’s because, it may detect that the face or faces are already sharp.

And enhancing something that’s already detailed can actually backfire.

Instead of improving the image, it will make it worse.

So as a general rule… if it doesn’t need help, don’t force the fix.

This tool is about rescue… not routine enhancement.

But when it does need help, this tool can be a game-changer.

SELECT FACES

After opening the flyout menu of options, the first thing you should check is to make sure the faces you want to enhance are selected.

So, head on over to the “Select Faces” tab and confirm all are selected. 

And those yellow boxes around the faces represent the enhancement zones.

Now, if you know one or more don’t need to be enhanced, click on the box to de-active the enhancement from being applied to that face….

…which will keep the focus where it belongs and helps prevent over-editing faces that are already sharp.

HEADS UP

Also, if a face is turned away, blocked by something, or simply too small… it may not get detected.

When that happens, you won’t see a yellow box and you won’t be able to apply the enhancement.

There’s no manual override. So don’t spend too long searching for a way to force it.

CONTROL OPTIONS

Ok, inside the Controls tab, you’ll see two AI model versions.

Version 1 gives you basic intensity control, along with the ability to include or exclude hair and neck.

If the effect starts looking a little too smooth around the edges, try turning those zones off.

Version 2, still in beta at the moment, adds two Modes: Realistic and Creative.

Realistic aims for subtle enhancement with minimal artifacts.

Creative is a little bolder in how it rebuilds facial features.

I find version 2 tends to give better results compared the previous version.

And I’ve found that this is esception for all types of faces, where it’s family photos, travel portraits, scanned images of old prints, or anything where expression matters most.

And the magic of this tool isn’t about technical sharpness. It’s about emotional clarity.

It helps you preserve the presence of the people in your images, not just their outlines.

It brings the spark back into their eyes. It brings dignity to old photos. And it helps you tell a fuller story.

In the next lesson, you’ll explore Super Focus for those images you think can’t be saved because their too blurry.

Lesson 03 – Super Focus: Rescuing Out-of-Focus Images

Not every image can or should be saved. But some? They deserve a second chance.

Super Focus is the most aggressive sharpening tool in your Topaz Lab

It’s built for the moments when standard sharpening just doesn’t cut it…

…when your subject is noticeably out of focus, and previous AI sharpening falls short.

Keep in mind that this isn’t the tool you reach for when an image is just a little soft.

This is your last resort option with the potential to turn a blurry photo into something useable.

Super Focus is different from the regular Sharpen enhancement tool.

It doesn’t just enhance edges or boost clarity. It uses generative AI to rebuild missing detail.

ACTIVATE

So, let’s check out the Super Focus enhancement tools and once you add it to your stack, you’ll get this new interface window.

Now, before we get into the enhancement tools, I have some bad news and some good news.

First, the bad news… not all computers can use this feature.

If the blue Render button down here at the bottom is greyed out, that means your system doesn’t meet the minimum requirements for Super Focus.

This tool is demanding and it leans heavily on your graphics card to run properly.

So, I can’t use it on my iMac that is running the old Intel chips.

However, I have a MacBook Pro that runs on an M2 chip… which is compatible with this feature.

And now for the good news… for those of you who can’t run Super Focus locally, there’s another option: Cloud Render.

We’ll explore Cloud Render in detail in the next module.

For now, let’s do a review of the features.

VERSIONS

At this time there are currently two versions.

Super Focus v1: 

This version takes a heavy-handed approach by applying aggressive sharpening across the whole image to recover detail where possible.

Think of it like a sledgehammer… it works best on photos that are obviously out of focus… but it doesn’t discriminate.

It sharpens everything… even areas that might not need it.

That means you sometimes get halos, edge artifacts, or weird textures. Especially in backgrounds or smooth surfaces.

For some images, it still works well.

Super Focus v2:

However, version 2 is a huge upgrade. 

And you may notice that this version, unlike the first, has a Strength slider that offers more finesse and the results tend to be more natural and realistic when you’re able to fine-tune as needed.

Another improvement with this version is, instead of hitting the entire image equally, it evaluates each region and adapts the intensity based on what it “thinks” is the subject vs. The background.

That means sharper results where you need them… and fewer problems in the areas you don’t.

It also does a better job of preserving skin texture and fine details. So for portraits, this version is a much better choice.

Another bonus is it’s much faster than version 1.

So, for this image it’ll take around 42 seconds to render in the cloud and the other version is around one and half minutes.

So, that’s what… around 50% faster.

And when you activate Super Focus, it will usually default to v2… but you can always switch back to v1 to compare.

So, if your image has edge artifacts or over-sharpened areas with v2, try v1 and see how it behaves.

Just keep in mind that no version is perfect and it just depends on the image.

That being said, Topaz has this little message here for some tips on the types of images that work best.

So, they’re basically saying, as I mentioned with Recover Faces, that it works on soft or out-of-focus images and it’s not recommended for images that are already sharp.

FOCUS BOOST

Alright, another option for getting your desired result is to select one of the Focus Boost options.

These settings tell Topaz how aggressive it should be in trying to rebuild missing detail.

It’s designed for images that are very blurry… and basically what it does is it will downscale your image to a smaller version, then upscale it back to the original size.

During that process, the AI has an easier time identifying what’s missing and fills in the gaps using the generative AI model.

So you’re not just sharpening the blur…

You’re actually telling Topaz to reconstruct what might’ve been there.

So, think of these options as increasing the intensity of sharpening with None being the default.

The Minor option adds a light focus boost and it does so in a more controlled way compared to Major.

Think of Major like a rescue mode for super-duper out-of-focus images.

This model is very aggressive in reconstructing your image in order to recover serious blur or even motion softness.

So, if you have an extremely soft image you might want to consider this setting before tossing the file.

POST PROCESSING

Now, under post-processing, you can help Topaz out by targeting the most important subject in your image, versus letting it try to figure it out on it’s own.

And if you’d like to preview what the render might look like, it’s not exact, but will give you an indication if the settings you chose are doable, use this box, which is automagically selected for you, to target an area in your image for that preview, by clicking in that area.

Now, be prepared to wait for that preview to render and if all is a go, click the Render option you’d like to go with.

And I have one last pro tip to share and that is, once Super Focus is done rendering you may want to narrow the target area further.

For example, for this image of my daughter, everything is in focus or at least as much as I’d like it, except for her eye.

However, Super Focus determined that there’s a subject and applied the edit to her.

However, since I just want to target her eye, I can do that by going to the Edit Selection tab, using the erase brush and removing the mask where the edit isn’t needed.

Now it’s your turn to put Super Focus to the test. Find one of your blurriest images and see if it can be saved.

And, in the next lesson we’ll check out how to retouch your images with the Remove tool.

Lesson 04 – REMOVE WITH PURPOSE: FIX THE FRAME, NOT THE FLOW

So, we’ve all been there. You line up a great image, get the light just right, capture the moment…

…and then later spot a stray person, a sign, a power line, or something random that crept into the frame that you didn’t notice before.

Or, sometimes it’s a small thing, like; dust spots.

Either way they all pull attention away from the story you’re trying to tell.

That’s where the Remove tool comes in handy.

A SIMPLE TOOL

So, it works a lot like a smart healing brush, but with AI doing the heavy lifting behind the scenes.

Now, if you’re using Lightroom or Photoshop, I believe their generative AI retouching tools are much better than what Topaz offers and they’re significantly faster.

So, if you don’t use Adobe products or another app for retouching, then you’ll benefit from this tool in the standalone app.

A FEW THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU START

Now, here’s something important to keep in mind. Once you use the Remove tool, Topaz locks in your other edits.

And this means you won’t be able to go back and make changes to any other enhancements applied like denoise, sharpening, etc.

So be sure your other enhancements are dialed in before you use this tool.

That’s why I recommend making Remove Object your last editing step.

HOW TO USE

And just like with Super Focus, you’ll get a new interface with your options once you activate the tool.

Adlib

…and once your happy with your retouching click the Save Changes and you’ll see that my Sharpening enhancement is greyed out or locked and I can’t adjust. 

So, make sure to do your retouching last.

YOUR TURN

Now it’s your turn to see how well the Remove tool works for retouching. 

So, grab a few images with some distractions and put it to the test.

After that, you’ll be ready to explore the Dust + Scratch repair tools

Lesson 05 – Dust + Scratch: Repairing the Details That Time Leaves Behind

Some images come with a little history. 

And they might be littered with scratches and dust spots, and after scanning them to be retouched digitally it’s time to make them new again.

And that’s when you’ll want to reach for the Dust + Scratch tool since it was built… for those moments, when the photo is worth saving, but the surface flaws are getting in the way.

This tool is designed to remove dust spots, fine scratches, and even some subtle scanning artifacts…

…without softening the image or requiring hours of cloning and healing.

Now, just like with Super Focus, this tool has higher system requirements and will not work on all computers, instead, you’ll need to process via the cloud.

HOW IT WORKS: SIMPLE AND AUTOMATIC

The first thing you’ll notice is, once you click the Process On Computer button, it just starts working.

There are no sliders or model choices to fuss with.

Topaz automagically analyzes the image and begins cleaning up those surface-level issues using AI.

HEALING BRUSH FOR THE DETAILS

Once the initial processing is complete, you’ll gain access to the Healing Brush.

You can zoom in and paint over any remaining trouble spots, like larger scratches or stubborn marks, that didn’t fully clear in the first pass.

And the brush applies changes automagically as you go. No need to hit Apply or Render… just paint and review.

BETA STATUS AND EXPECTATIONS

Now just a quick note… that this tool is still in beta. And in the example I’m using, it didn’t completely clean up the deeper scratches.

So it may take extra time and brushing to get it right. As it improves, I’ll revisit this lesson with updates.

Your Turn

Now it’s your turn to see how well the Dust and Scratch can repair your images. 

Either pick out some of your own or if you don’t have any old photos like this, grab this one from your resources folder to test it out.

Lesson 06 –  Outro

Now that you’ve seen what each enhancement tool can do, it’s time to get more hands-on if you haven’t already, now’s the perfect time.

So, grab your Discovery Worksheets, choose a few of your own images and run them through all the enhancement tools… 

…try different settings, compare results, and make notes on what improves your photos… and what doesn’t.

This isn’t about finding “the best” setting. It’s about understanding what works for *you*… your style, your subjects, and your goals.

Because in the next module, we’re going to turn those discoveries into a workflow that fits seamlessly into your editing process.

So take your time… test, compare, and reflect.

And when you’re ready, I’ll see you in the next module.